The Dangers of Copper Barware

While unlikely to cause real harm, it's important to be aware

Back in 2014, I had just started to dip my toes in this modern cocktail revival. I remember the excitement in the industry when Cocktail Kingdom first released their beautiful line of professional copper barware. It had this cool vintage vibe that we were all chasing at the time and almost overnight every mixologist had a set. What more could one want when recreating cocktails of yore than tools that look like they were used by Bill Boothby or Jerry Thomas?

So, when I decided it was time to splurge on a full set of tools, I of course got the copper set from Cocktail Kingdom. Did I mention, it was 2014, copper was all the rage and, after all, it’s what all the trend setting bartenders at the time were using. When I got my expensive tools in the mail and laid them on my bar I was instantly smitten with their delicate shine and vintage feel. Of course I wanted to show them off, so I got a tool roll up and from that point on they became my daily drivers. Unfortunately popularity and functionality are often at odds.

Professional Tools for Working Bartenders

Back then, Cocktail Kingdom was one of the few companies making quality products for working bartenders. Since then many others have entered the market and the competition has stiffened. When companies like Piña Barware and Viski began manufacturing high quality tools at lower prices, it was clear Cocktail Kingdom had to either increase their quality standards and price their tools more competitively, or change their business model. It seems they chose the latter and now offer an array of different colors and decorative tools perfect for the home cocktail enthusiast. That said, it’s important we recognize the innovations they have brought to the market such as my Koriko strainer that I can’t live without.

I was wielding my trusty Cocktail Kingdom copper plated Koriko hawthorne strainer behind the bar when after a few months I noticed a bit of tarnish. Upon closer inspection it seemed like the copper was coming off. Oh no, I thought, why is my expensive, high end strainer falling apart?? I did a bit of research and it turns out that plated barware – from any manufacturer – is not safe for the dishwasher. So while I take the blame for not reading the fine print, that hardly seems professional. How am I supposed to sanitize my tools at the end of the night? Well, it was onto hand washing for me.

Several more months went by when it appeared that some of the copper was wearing off on the back of my bar spoon. Then it was the jiggers, both those from Cocktail Kingdom and Viski, that began to wear in a similar fashion. So while Cocktail Kingdom may have started the trend, other manufacturers were getting in the game but their products didn’t seem to be any better.

All of a sudden it clicked; the acidic ingredients like citrus and vermouth were stripping off the copper!

Cooking with Copper

I remembered a few years back when I was making a batch of my famous ragu. My recipe calls for a long simmer to allow the flavors to combine. This time I was using my trusty tin lined copper pot which has exceptional heat dispersal, but what I didn’t notice was the tin layer on the inside had started to wear (as they are prone to do) in a few spots, exposing the copper. Since tomatoes are acidic, they break down the copper and it leaches into the sauce. I tasted it and it was absolutely horrible! At first I thought it tasted sour so I added a bit of sugar. That didn’t work, so I added a bunch more. It was starting to come around but I knew something was wrong so I took to the internet.

I soon found that acidic ingredients should be handled with care. Apparently cast iron and copper were a no-no. As a life-long foodie and enthusiastic home cook, this was something I should have known a long time ago, but apparently it’s not as commonly known as one would think. This is why when braising a tomato based stew, for instance, using a glass, ceramic or stainless Dutch oven is the preferred method. I imagine if these companies knew they were causing unwitting bartenders to serve their unsuspecting guests a bit of added copper in their libation, along with off flavors, they would have thought twice about manufacturing professional products that can’t stand up to the rigors of professional use.

Now if you are worried that you have accidentally poisoned your guests, don’t be too alarmed. While the dangers of copper toxicity are a real concern, it turns out that a bit of copper in our diet is good for our health and copper poisoning requires far more than what you would get from your favorite cocktail or two.

Copper is an essential mineral—along with iron, potassium and zinc—and necessary for everything from cardiovascular well-being to immune function. Copper deficiencies have been linked to high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and a higher risk of osteoporosis, among other things.

Oysters have one of the highest amounts of naturally occurring copper. 6 oysters can contain up to 400% RDV of copper

Limit the Amount of Copper in Your Diet

So we all need a little copper in our life. Most of us tend to get our daily recommended percentage of copper through our diet. This means that if you are getting additional copper from sources like your cookware, bar tools or copper water pipes, you may be overdoing it. It’s also important to note that excessive copper in your system can interact with many common drugs and supplements including birth control pills and zinc, among others.

Luckily, the body can rid itself of excess copper, and the symptoms of acute copper poisoning are fairly obvious (be alarmed if your mouth tastes like pennies!). In extreme cases, excessive copper in your diet can cause copper toxicity, a rare condition that can cause heart failure, liver disease, coma, and even death. While consuming the amount of copper necessary to cause serious illness is unlikely, it is possible.

Given the fact that most people already have more than enough copper in their diet, it’s best to avoid the possible dangers of copper barware. As I said before, one or two cocktails won’t give you copper poisoning, it is a cumulative process requiring multiple exposures over time. Since we can’t be sure exactly how much we are taking into our systems, my suggestion is to play it safe and eliminate copper barware as a potential source. This also simplifies your sanitization procedures and ensures that your drinks taste spot on, something we all work hard to achieve.

Additionally, as someone who has served thousands of drinks, I expect a “premium product” to stand up to everyday use in a professional setting, where copper plated barware does not. In the future, I will always recommend stainless steel barware to anyone that asks. It may not be as sexy, but it is low maintenance, long lived and sure looks better than inadvertently making a guest sick, or worse.